Kingston, Jamaica has a
tough reputation that dates back to the bloody political turmoil of the ‘70s
and the crack wars of the ‘80s. Even dancehall, the hot music that has replaced
traditional reggae as the island’s chief musical export, has a deservedly edgy
vibe. Before I headed down to Jamaica’s capitol I had all kinds of stereotypes
about Kingston in my head.
But a few days running
round the city changed my perception of Kingston. Now I’m not suggesting you
plan your trip around the notorious Trenchtown section of the town. However I
found the place to be very family oriented with quality restaurants and plenty
of black pride.
Located on the island’s
South coast. Kingston is the proud repository of this independent black
nation’s history. The National Gallery of Jamaica, located in the busy downtown
area, is a treasure trove of paintings and sculpture that celebrates its
peoples’ successful struggle to break free of slavery and British colonialism.
One of the most famous statues in the National Gallery is The Negro Aroused,
created by Jamaica’s best-loved fine artists Edna Manley, to celebrate Jamaican
independence.
A replica of The Negro
Aroused can be found on King Street on the shoreline downtown. As fishermen
work the sea and businessman meet at various downtown mini-skyscrapers, this
statue speaks to the sense of purpose that animates much of the city’s life.
While The Negro Aroused
speaks to political liberation, a newer statue reflects the nation’s spiritual
and sexual self-image. Redemption Song, created by the artist Laura Facey
Cooper, is composed of large bronze figures of a man and women emerging from
water with their gazes to the sky. Situated at the foot of the seven-year-old
Emancipation Park, Redemption Song’s man and woman are, unlike most American
statues, extremely anatomically correct with large sex organs.On the weekends Redemption Park is
dotted with wedding parties who use its landscaped greenery as a backdrop for
wedding pictures, so love is very much on the air at Emancipation Park.
The bold sexuality of
these figures is very much in keeping with Kingston’s lusty nature. Jamaicans
are a good looking people and they are not modest about showcasing their
bodies. That comes through in the dancehall music that blasts from massive
sound systems that seem to be booming every other block on a Friday or Saturday
night. Wednesday nights the Veddy Veddy party in Kingston is an institution,
but make sure you stretch before you go, since Jamaica club dancing is not for
the stiff limbed.
Before you head out to a
Kingston party I’d recommend stopping by Cuddy’z Sports Bar & Restaurant,
which is located in the popular New Kingston Shopping Center, and owned by
famous retired cricketeer, Courtney Walsh.Like an American sports bar, Cuddy’z is decorated with
athletic paraphernalia, but its all cricket gear (pictures, uniforms, bats,
murals), a game very dear to the heart of West Indians. The crowd is primarily
folks in their early ‘20s, lots of stylishly dressed couples and groups of
attractive young women. The atmosphere at Cuddy’s reminded of being in
Atlanta’s Buckhead area of a nice summer night.
For a mellow daytime
experience a visit to Hope Botanical Gardens, which is located on 200 acres of
land and is the largest public green space in the city. Nestled in the center
of Hope Gardens is an oasis within an oasis, Ashanti Oasis Ital restaurant.
Ital is an Rastafarian word equates to vegetarian food and this place lives up
to the name. Owned by Sister Hope, a laid back woman who opened the space in
2002 in an abandoned building, she’s created a tranquil space in sometimes
hectic Kingston.
Pinto bean soup, bean curd
with veggies, acai with tofu washed down by guava juice made for a healthy
meal. While I was dining a mid-day shower swept across Hope Gardens spraying a
fine, calming mist over all of us dining at Ashanti, which as a roof but has
windowless walls. It was a very sweet moment in Kingston’s heat.
My final recommended
Kingston destination is Devon House, a large estate created in the 1800s by
George Siebel, the first black million in the Caribbean. Siebel’s story is as
colorful as any period adventure film. Siebel made his fortune when, after
surviving a ship wreck at sea, he came a shore in central America with his
money belt still attached to his waist. Using that money Siebel purchased and a
diamond mine and made his fortune.
He built Devon House from
scratch and with its large white house and converted servants quarters, its
remains one of the most imposing parcels of land in Kingston. For several
decades this century Devon House housed the National Gallery of Jamaica.These days it’s been converted into a
series of dining and lounging spaces that attracts large families as well as those
seeking fine dining.
Norma’s on the Terrace at
Devon House is run by Norma Shirley, a world renown chef, and the place has won
citations from every culinary magazine you can name. She’s sometimes called the
Julia Child of the Caribbean, though she cites her influences more from several
English chefs. Either way Norma’s food is a rich, sophisticated take on
traditional island fare. I had an avocado salad, curried shrimp and pieces of
my dining companions goat and fish. Not only is the food heavenly but the
atmosphere superb. All the tables are on an outdoor terrace with beautiful
lighting, ceiling fans and well-maintained flowers. It’s a colonial setting
with people of color not just cooking, but dining as well.
Down the steps from
Norma’s is a courtyard with benches that are filled with Jamaicans and couples
sampling another feature of Devon House, I Scream!, which is a heavy cream
desert spot that is packed with folks. Maybe because of Jamaica’s heat,
Kingston residents like their ice cream thick and weighty. After two scoops of
I Scream, you need to sit down on a Devon House bench and relax.
Sitting in a Devon House
courtyard, listening to the sweet poetry of Jamaican patois and watching
families and friends telling stories, lets a visitor experience Kingston more
like a resident.I had a sweet
time in Kingston and I’d definitely come back.
