BLACKATLAS.COM – KINGSTON, JAMAICA

Kingston, Jamaica has a tough reputation that dates back to the bloody political turmoil of the ‘70s and the crack wars of the ‘80s. Even dancehall, the hot music that has replaced traditional reggae as the island’s chief musical export, has a deservedly edgy vibe. Before I headed down to Jamaica’s capitol I had all kinds of stereotypes about Kingston in my head.

But a few days running round the city changed my perception of Kingston. Now I’m not suggesting you plan your trip around the notorious Trenchtown section of the town. However I found the place to be very family oriented with quality restaurants and plenty of black pride.

Located on the island’s South coast. Kingston is the proud repository of this independent black nation’s history. The National Gallery of Jamaica, located in the busy downtown area, is a treasure trove of paintings and sculpture that celebrates its peoples’ successful struggle to break free of slavery and British colonialism. One of the most famous statues in the National Gallery is The Negro Aroused, created by Jamaica’s best-loved fine artists Edna Manley, to celebrate Jamaican independence.

A replica of The Negro Aroused can be found on King Street on the shoreline downtown. As fishermen work the sea and businessman meet at various downtown mini-skyscrapers, this statue speaks to the sense of purpose that animates much of the city’s life.

While The Negro Aroused speaks to political liberation, a newer statue reflects the nation’s spiritual and sexual self-image. Redemption Song, created by the artist Laura Facey Cooper, is composed of large bronze figures of a man and women emerging from water with their gazes to the sky. Situated at the foot of the seven-year-old Emancipation Park, Redemption Song’s man and woman are, unlike most American statues, extremely anatomically correct with large sex organs.  On the weekends Redemption Park is dotted with wedding parties who use its landscaped greenery as a backdrop for wedding pictures, so love is very much on the air at Emancipation Park.

The bold sexuality of these figures is very much in keeping with Kingston’s lusty nature. Jamaicans are a good looking people and they are not modest about showcasing their bodies. That comes through in the dancehall music that blasts from massive sound systems that seem to be booming every other block on a Friday or Saturday night. Wednesday nights the Veddy Veddy party in Kingston is an institution, but make sure you stretch before you go, since Jamaica club dancing is not for the stiff limbed.

Before you head out to a Kingston party I’d recommend stopping by Cuddy’z Sports Bar & Restaurant, which is located in the popular New Kingston Shopping Center, and owned by famous retired cricketeer, Courtney Walsh.  Like an American sports bar, Cuddy’z is decorated with athletic paraphernalia, but its all cricket gear (pictures, uniforms, bats, murals), a game very dear to the heart of West Indians. The crowd is primarily folks in their early ‘20s, lots of stylishly dressed couples and groups of attractive young women. The atmosphere at Cuddy’s reminded of being in Atlanta’s Buckhead area of a nice summer night.

For a mellow daytime experience a visit to Hope Botanical Gardens, which is located on 200 acres of land and is the largest public green space in the city. Nestled in the center of Hope Gardens is an oasis within an oasis, Ashanti Oasis Ital restaurant. Ital is an Rastafarian word equates to vegetarian food and this place lives up to the name. Owned by Sister Hope, a laid back woman who opened the space in 2002 in an abandoned building, she’s created a tranquil space in sometimes hectic Kingston.

Pinto bean soup, bean curd with veggies, acai with tofu washed down by guava juice made for a healthy meal. While I was dining a mid-day shower swept across Hope Gardens spraying a fine, calming mist over all of us dining at Ashanti, which as a roof but has windowless walls. It was a very sweet moment in Kingston’s heat.

My final recommended Kingston destination is Devon House, a large estate created in the 1800s by George Siebel, the first black million in the Caribbean. Siebel’s story is as colorful as any period adventure film. Siebel made his fortune when, after surviving a ship wreck at sea, he came a shore in central America with his money belt still attached to his waist. Using that money Siebel purchased and a diamond mine and made his fortune.

He built Devon House from scratch and with its large white house and converted servants quarters, its remains one of the most imposing parcels of land in Kingston. For several decades this century Devon House housed the National Gallery of Jamaica.  These days it’s been converted into a series of dining and lounging spaces that attracts large families as well as those seeking fine dining.

Norma’s on the Terrace at Devon House is run by Norma Shirley, a world renown chef, and the place has won citations from every culinary magazine you can name. She’s sometimes called the Julia Child of the Caribbean, though she cites her influences more from several English chefs. Either way Norma’s food is a rich, sophisticated take on traditional island fare. I had an avocado salad, curried shrimp and pieces of my dining companions goat and fish. Not only is the food heavenly but the atmosphere superb. All the tables are on an outdoor terrace with beautiful lighting, ceiling fans and well-maintained flowers. It’s a colonial setting with people of color not just cooking, but dining as well.

Down the steps from Norma’s is a courtyard with benches that are filled with Jamaicans and couples sampling another feature of Devon House, I Scream!, which is a heavy cream desert spot that is packed with folks. Maybe because of Jamaica’s heat, Kingston residents like their ice cream thick and weighty. After two scoops of I Scream, you need to sit down on a Devon House bench and relax.

Sitting in a Devon House courtyard, listening to the sweet poetry of Jamaican patois and watching families and friends telling stories, lets a visitor experience Kingston more like a resident.  I had a sweet time in Kingston and I’d definitely come back.

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